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The Mediterranean • Eat & drink • Coimbra’s 5 best restaurants (and must-try dishes)
Coimbra sits at the heart of Portugal’s Centro region, a city visited frequently for its ancient university, but it also pulls you in with its flavours. This is a city with a split personality – in the best possible way. On one hand, it’s fiercely traditional, with recipes handed down through generations. On the other hand, it’s young, thanks to a student population that keeps the energy fresh and the culinary scene forward-thinking. The result? A dining culture that feels lived-in but never stagnant. From contemporary kitchens riffing on classic Portuguese dishes to hidden gems that turn humble stews into revelations, Coimbra is full of surprises. We spent a few days exploring both sides – old and new – and came away with a list of places you’ll want to book immediately. Here’s where to eat in Coimbra and what you absolutely shouldn’t leave without tasting.
Top photography courtesy of Terraco da Alta
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Behind a moody façade in the city’s old quarter, Restaurante Má (“bad” in Portuguese, but ironically, it’s very good) is the kind of place where the unexpected becomes the rule. Chef Ricardo Casqueiro doesn’t play by the usual Coimbra cookbook. Instead, he draws inspiration from Japanese precision, Nordic minimalism and Iberian ingredients to create dishes that feel playful but intense. Expect omakase dining, where the menu is constantly changing. Past highlights included bluefin tuna topped with caviar, Azores squid and uni and our favourite – house‑made mochi and macarons. It’s a compact space, equal parts cave and gallery, with polished wooden counters, subdued lighting and precision plating that borders on theatrical.
Photography courtesy of Restaurante Má
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“At O Palco, the products are the stars,” says chef‑owner Marco Almeida, who trained with José Avillez and Martín Berasategui before opening Restaurante O Palco in 2022. His Palco Principal tasting menu is served in Acts I–III, with intriguing ingredients like suckling pig butter from Bairrada, foraged mushrooms, river fish and a playful Beirão‑liqueur mocktail amuse. Front and centre of Restaurante O Palco is an open kitchen built on a black‑and‑blue platform. Everything’s served on hand-thrown Coimbra pottery – subtle, beautiful and just imperfect enough to feel human. Restaurante O Palco aspires to become the region’s first certified kilometre-zero restaurant, sourcing 100% of its ingredients within a 39-kilometre radius.
Photography courtesy of Restaurante O Palco
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Minimalist on the outside, radical on the inside. Safra is the creative playground of João Sá, one of Portugal’s most quietly daring chefs. Opened in 2023, it’s still flying under the radar – though probably not for long. The concept is ingredient-first, with a plant-forward menu that doesn’t shy away from daring flavour combinations like grilled leek with fermented apple, chickpea miso broth or salsify cooked in smoked butter. There’s meat and fish too, but always as supporting acts. The tartare served on a croissant with shallot pickle is a must and you cannot leave without trying the acclaimed Basque‑style cheesecake. The long bar anchors a raw-concrete dining room warmed by timber accents and at night, pendant lights cast a golden glow over the communal tables.
Photography courtesy of Safra
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There are few better places to watch the sun dip over Coimbra’s terracotta rooftops than this open-air spot near the university. Terraço da Alta does views, yes, but it also does genuinely good food – no tourist traps here. The décor is breezy and sets the tone for a casual lunch or dinner – wicker chairs, stone counters and potted herbs climbing the walls and a historic segment of Coimbra’s ancient wall exposed inside the lounge. The must-try dishes on their menu are the octopus rice flavoured with coriander and garlic, as well as melt‑in‑your‑mouth pork cheeks that are slow‑braised in local wine. Set above the red‑tiled skyline, Terraço da Alta offers panoramic views of the Mondego – the perfect setting for sipping on a sangria or white port spritz while the sun sets.
Photography courtesy of Terraço da Alta
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True to its name (in the pot), No Tacho channels Portuguese home cooking with seasonal ingredients and artisanal touch. Behind a simple façade on R. da Moeda, warm wood tables and soft lighting create a familial atmosphere where you can’t help but feel at home. Expect deeply comforting Portuguese classics on the menu. We recommend trying the arroz de pato (duck rice), baked until crispy on top or the slow-cooked beef with red wine and allspice. The owner also manages a rare, region‑focused wine cellar – all Portuguese, mostly from Bairrada and Dão, which complements the dishes beautifully.
Photography courtesy of No Tacho
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