Italy
Trend watch: from Rome to Milan, the hypertrattoria is here to stay
An insider guide to Italy’s hypertrattoria trend
The hypertrattoria is a newly minted concept in Italian dining – essentially an upgraded, 21st-century version of the classic trattoria (Italian eatery). Combining communal dining heritage with cutting-edge experiences and media activations to shape the tradition of the future. In 2025, it shot into the spotlight with a Rome festival dedicated to reimagining the trattoria, signalling that this new trattoria boom is more than a fad. The hypertrattoria arrived at a moment when diners crave authenticity blended with innovation, seeking deeper connections to provenance and narrative. By combining time-honoured recipes with forward-thinking formats, it revitalises the trattoria model, ensuring this emblem of Italian hospitality evolves for new generations.
Top photography courtesy of Franceschetta 58
What is a hypertrattoria?
The term hypertrattoria (often seen in Italian as ipertrattoria) essentially means a “super” or “next-level” trattoria. The hyper in hypertrattoria was deliberately chosen as Italian-English wordplay to signal its global ambition.
Unlike a formal ristorante (elegant restaurant with white tablecloths, sommelier service and higher prices) or a simple osteria (historically a no-frills tavern for drinks), a hypertrattoria sits in between.
It retains the informality, local focus and homey atmosphere of a trattoria while adding creativity and contemporary techniques to the kitchen. Hypertrattorias often look like retro-style trattorias on the surface (think hand-lettered menus on chalkboards, open shelves and wood-panel decor) while the cooking is inventive and forward-looking.
A hypertrattoria has one foot in Italy’s past and one firmly planted in the present. It’s part of a broader ristorazione di mezzo or informal dining movement where honest, familiar food is taken to exciting new places.
Photography courtesy of Santo Palato
Where did the trend start – and who’s behind it?
This new-wave trattoria movement began in the mid-2010s. This trend is driven by a new generation of chefs and restaurateurs who grew up eating trattoria food but trained in modern kitchens.
In Milan, Cesare Battisti (with partner Danilo Ingannamorte) opened Ratanà late in 2009, breaking down the barriers between the old-fashioned trattoria and haute cuisine. Other leaders in this field include Modena’s Franceschetta 58, the neighbourhood bistro sister to Bottura’s three‑star Osteria Francescana, opened by Massimo Bottura and run by Francesco Vincenzi. In 2017, Rome’s rising star, Sarah Cicolini, opened Santo Palato – a hypertrattoria steeped in Roman and Abruzzese tradition but with an energetic, avant-garde spirit.
Photography courtesy of Ratanà
How do I spot one?
Identifying a hypertrattoria involves looking for subtle cues that distinguish it from a purely traditional or modern trattoria. While a traditional trattoria might emphasise rustic simplicity, a hypertrattoria often blends this with a more thoughtful and sometimes artistic presentation.
Visually, a hypertrattoria often looks deliberately unpretentious. It might display a retro trattoria sign, vintage posters or rustic tile floors, but everything is refreshed (painted walls, designer lighting, natural wood tables). You’ll also usually spot a handwritten blackboard with daily-changing specials. Many hypertrattorias use a handwritten blackboard or printed menu di giornata to highlight whatever is freshest that day.
In short, look for a spot that feels like a retro trattoria with a modern edge – a bustling, homey room (sometimes with communal tables) and a menu focused on regionally rooted dishes given a creative update. These places may not be shiny new boutiques, but they will stand out by design details (chalkboard menu, funky décor) and a warm, lively energy.
Photography courtesy of Trattoria Da Lucio
Where are the best places to try it right now?
Santo Palato
Chef Sarah Cicolini’s modern Roman hypertrattoria Santo Palato opened in Rome in 2017. Cicolini trained in fine dining but opened her hypertrattoria to serve Roman classics in a whole different light – using the whole animal, not just noble cuts. Santo Palato’s menu pairs Abruzzo roots with Roman classics, featuring dishes like quinto quarto (offal) specialities – from pajata (milk-fed calf intestines in pasta) to tongue‑and‑tail terrines – all balanced by creative touches and an ethical, zero‑waste meat philosophy. Santo Palato’s colourful, retro‑chic dining room (tangerine walls, vintage fridge stickers, chalkboard specials) and friendly vibe perfectly capture the hypertrattoria spirit.
Ratanà
Cesare Battisti’s pioneering hypertrattoria Ratanà has been operating in Milan since 2009. From day one, Ratanà aimed to interpret traditional Milanese dishes in a contemporary way. Ratanà quickly became renowned for their modern take on Lombard classics like ossobuco (veal stew), mondeghili meatballs (Milanese meatballs) and mountain trout. The restaurant sources almost everything from nearby family producers (they even list them on the menu) and focuses on regional tradition. A grand Liberty-style villa houses this hypertrattoria, where the atmosphere is warm and informal with rustic-chic decor.
Franceschetta 58
Franceschetta 58 in Modena is Massimo Bottura’s take on a hypertrattoria run by Francesco Vincenzi. Franceschetta58, the neighbourhood bistro sister to Bottura’s three‑star Osteria Francescana, offers the same level of service but in a more casual setting. The vibe is youthful and energetic – a lively village hypertrattoria in the heart of Modena. This hypertrattoria is focused on simplicity and tradition, serving Emilian favourites like pork-centred specialities (porchetta, cotechino) and fresh pasta (trofie, tortelloni del tortellante) alongside desserts like Bottura’s sweet cacio e pepe ice cream.
Trattoria Da Lucio
Trattoria Da Lucio in Rimini is a seaside hypertrattoria with soul, led by young chef Jacopo Ticchi. It’s one of Italy’s most acclaimed new spots for fish. Ticchi ages large fish under controlled conditions (inspired by Josh Niland) and grills seafood on wood fire. From raw crudi to flavourful fish stews, Da Lucio delivers ultra-local seafood in a convivial, hands-on style – very much in the hypertrattoria spirit.
Photography courtesy of Franceschetta 58
What’s the vibe – and who’s it for?
Hypertrattorias tend to draw a mixed but predominantly younger crowd – millennials and Gen-Z Italians and travellers who want high-quality food without formality. These spots are more relaxed and authentic than a luxury restaurant.
The atmosphere is energetic and convivial – you’ll hear animated chatter and clinking glasses rather than hushed fine-dining quiet. You won’t find printed multi-page wine lists with sommelier scripts – instead, there may be an owner or enthusiastic young servers pouring a small range of local wines and suggested pairings. Yet the food has fine-dining pedigree – techniques are refined, plates are composed and quality is paramount. So hypertrattorie are ideal for food lovers who want restaurant‑level cooking but in a welcoming, more casual setting.
The interiors will be a combination of old and new – wooden chairs and vintage posters alongside modern light fixtures and designer furniture pieces. There’s often an open kitchen or visible prep (you might watch pasta being made or vino poured). Music is often on (Italian pop or jazz), lighting is warm but not dim and the dress code is smart-casual (no tie needed). Hosts and servers are chatty and friendly, sometimes explaining the nose-to-tail approach or the story of the local producers. In many ways, it feels like dining at a food-loving friend’s place.
Photography courtesy of Santo Palato
What’s on the menu (and how much will it cost)?
Menus at hypertrattorias centre on seasonal, regional ingredients, often focusing on reinterpreting traditional dishes. Seasonal vegetables are highlighted in unique ways, like wood‑oven asparagus, charred wild greens and pickles, often to contrast heavy proteins. You’ll find plenty of handcrafted pastas (comforting bowls of carbonara, amatriciana or bean-and-pasta soups) and long‑braised meats or stews are also common. You can also expect guts and bones done proudly. Roma-style tripe (trippa), veal brain, sweetbreads and pork skin terrines appear on menus.
Plating tends to be generous rather than minimalist – think sharing bowls of pasta, whole roast vegetables or neatly arranged grilled fish. Even when chefs get inventive (smoking, curing or foraging), the portions are generous and family-style.
Many hypertrattorias mirror the trendy enoteca movement – their wine lists favour natural, biodynamic and small-producer Italian wines. You’ll find amphora skin wines, pét-nats and bold reds (especially from Puglia, Tuscany and the Northeast) alongside a few well-chosen classics.
Prices are generally moderate – more than a pizza-and-pasta trattoria but far below fine dining. Roughly, mains or shareable plates run €10–25, side dishes €5–10. A full meal with an appetiser, pasta, meat or fish course and dessert (plus a glass of wine) might total €50–80 per person in these spots. Tasting menus range from €40 (short menu) to €100+ (extended). In short, you’re paying for quality ingredients and creativity, but without the luxury markup of fine dining.
Photography courtesy of Ratanà
What should I order – and how should I approach the meal?
Approach the meal the way Italians do – eat slowly, enjoy conversation and don’t feel obliged to order every course.
For first-timers, exploring the signature dishes is a good starting point. Feel free to chat with the server or chef about what’s fresh today. Many hypertrattorias will tell you about their local farmers or special catch of the day. If there’s a chalkboard of daily specials, consider trying one or two – they showcase the chef’s creativity.
Unlike formal tasting menus, ordering in a hypertrattoria can be flexible. You can do à la carte (picking antipasto, primo and secondo) or go for the chef’s tasting menu. If you choose the fixed menu, expect sequential courses, if à la carte, plates may still arrive in quick succession.
Smart casual/chic attire is fine. There’s no need for quiet formality – these places are lively and relaxed. The focus is on hearty eating and conversation.
Photography courtesy of Trattoria Da Lucio
What is the Hypertrattoria Festival – and why does it matter?
The inaugural Hypertrattoria Festival is set to run from 23 to 25 May 2025 in Officine Farneto, Rome, the very first festival dedicated to the contemporary trattoria.
Laura Lazzaroni and entrepreneurs Stefano Costi and Simone Brengola conceived the Hypertrattoria Festival to celebrate what they call la ristorazione di mezzo – the informal, mid-range dining sector they find most exciting right now. This festival, complete with speciality coffee bars, gelato stands and a marketplace, marks a milestone. It signals that Italy recognises the hypertrattoria as a new pillar of its culinary culture.
The programme includes Arena Trattoria events around the city and then a three-day festival featuring 15 top hypertrattorias serving iconic dishes from their menus. In addition to the food, the festival hosts talks and masterclasses and your ticket includes a plated tasting or wine pairing, plus seminars featuring Cesare Battisti, Alessandro Roscioli and Diego Rossi.
Photography courtesy of Franceschetta 58
Is this just a trend or a long-term shift in Italian dining?
The rise of the hypertrattoria appears to be more than just a fleeting trend, reflecting a long-term shift in Italian dining. There are good reasons to think hypertrattoria is more than a flash in the pan.
It aligns with deeper shifts in society and global dining. A whole generation of young chefs and diners now values informality, authenticity and sustainability. Many hypertrattorias focus on environmental practices – emphasising plant-rich menus, zero-waste cooking and ethically sourced ingredients. This isn’t a marketing gimmick but a reflection of how chefs like Battisti and Cicolini were already cooking for years, even before the hypertrattoria label.
In Italy specifically, the post‑pandemic era and economic pressures have pushed chefs to rethink business models. Fine‑dining restaurants have become riskier (high prices, fewer customers) while convivial casual dining is booming. Hypertrattorias offer margins through smaller tasting menus or shared plates and they often eliminate waste (whole-animal butchery, minimal tipping of unused food).
There is also a shift on the social side – younger Italians enjoy dining out in a fun, communal way and global travellers now expect “real” Italian food in a friendly setting. The hypertrattoria fits the bill for both – it’s a way for Italy to export its culinary soul (traditional flavours) while speaking the language of today (casual service, Instagrammable interiors, craft wine). The creation of the Hypertrattoria Festival and its plans to go international indicate confidence that this style has staying power.
Photography courtesy of Panto Palato
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